Roofing FAQ

For a typical 2,000 sq ft home, expect $7,000–$15,500 for asphalt shingles and $17,000–$40,000 for a metal roof. Actual cost varies by roof pitch (steeper costs more), number of layers being torn off, local labor market, and material grade. A 30-year architectural shingle costs more than a 3-tab; standing seam metal costs more than corrugated. Always get the estimate broken out by materials, labor, and disposal so you can compare bids accurately.

Minor repairs — replacing a handful of shingles, resealing flashing, patching a small leak — typically run $300–$1,000. Larger section repairs or work involving the decking underneath run $1,500–$4,500. If repair quotes are approaching $5,000 or more on an older roof, it is worth getting a full replacement estimate to compare the long-term economics.

Standalone roof inspections run $150–$400 depending on roof size, pitch, and whether the inspector provides a written report with photos. Many roofing contractors offer a free inspection when you are already getting repair or replacement quotes — this is worth taking advantage of. For pre-purchase inspections, a certified roof inspector separate from any contractor can give you an unbiased assessment.

Yes — standard homeowners insurance covers sudden and accidental storm damage from hail, high winds, falling trees, lightning, and fire. It does not cover damage from normal wear and tear, aging, or deferred maintenance. If your roof is old and the adjuster attributes damage to age rather than the specific storm, the claim may be denied or reduced. Document damage immediately after any storm and file promptly.

Replacement Cost Value (RCV) pays the full cost to install a comparable new roof regardless of your current roof's age. Actual Cash Value (ACV) deducts depreciation — so a 15-year-old roof on an ACV policy receives significantly less than its replacement cost. On an RCV policy, insurers usually pay in two stages: an initial ACV check, then release the held-back depreciation (called recoverable depreciation) once the work is complete and you submit the final invoice. Check your declarations page to confirm which applies to your policy.

Most homeowners insurance policies set a filing window of one year from the date of the storm event, though some allow up to two years and a few are shorter. File as soon as you have safely documented the damage. The longer you wait, the harder it becomes to prove that specific damage came from a dated storm rather than from general wear — which is not covered.

In most U.S. jurisdictions, yes — a full tear-off and reroof requires a building permit. The permit triggers an inspection that confirms the work meets local building code for decking, underlayment, and ventilation. Some municipalities exempt simple overlay jobs (new shingles installed over existing ones) from permit requirements, but overlays have their own trade-offs. Check with your local building department before assuming no permit is needed.

In most cases the licensed roofing contractor pulls the permit as part of the job. This should be included in the contract. A contractor who asks you to pull your own permit — to save them the trouble or because they are not licensed in your jurisdiction — is a red flag. The permit is part of what you are paying for, and the contractor's license ties them to the quality of the work.

Three main consequences: First, when you sell the home, a title search or home inspection may flag the unpermitted work, requiring you to retroactively permit it or disclose it to the buyer. Second, if the unpermitted work later causes damage, your insurer may use the violation to deny or reduce a claim. Third, your municipality could issue a stop-work order or fine if the work is discovered. The permit fee and inspection process are small costs compared to these risks.

Four steps: (1) Ask for their state contractor license number and verify it directly on your state's licensing board website — takes two minutes. (2) Request a certificate of insurance showing both general liability and workers' compensation coverage; call the insurer to confirm it is active. (3) Check reviews on Google and the BBB, specifically looking at how the company handles complaints. (4) Be cautious of door-to-door canvassers who appear immediately after a storm — out-of-area storm chasers often take deposits and disappear or use substandard materials. A Verified badge on a listing means we already confirmed the license step for you — see how verification works.

Yes — two to three bids is the standard recommendation. When comparing, look at scope of work, not just the final number. A low bid that omits decking inspection, uses 3-tab shingles instead of architectural, or skips ice-and-water shield in a required climate zone is not actually cheaper once you account for what is missing. Ask each contractor to itemize materials and labor so you are comparing equivalent scopes.

A fair structure: a deposit of roughly 25–33% at signing to cover initial materials, with the balance due on completion after you have inspected the work. Some larger jobs include a mid-project progress payment, which is reasonable on a multi-day job. Never pay more than 50% upfront, and never pay 100% before the work is finished. A contractor who demands full payment upfront is a significant red flag.